March 2010


It’s 2am. I leave for Colombia tomorrow morning and I haven’t packed. Or slept. My tummy hurts because I felt compelled to eat all the food in the fridge that would otherwise go to waste while I’m away. So, I roasted and consumed an entire head of cauliflower and a container of green olives in herbs. Woe is me.

Okay, hold on. Seriously, who am I kidding? I’m going to Colombia tomorrow! I can sleep on the plane. Right now, I’d like to get a few thoughts down before I leave because I’m not taking my computer with me. Of course I hope to get Happelsaucey while I’m down there, but there are no guarantees. I am looking forward to leaving my laptop behind, to be honest. I don’t even think I’m going to bring my iPod. I’m rolling on the old school travel tip, with a backpack and books to keep me company. I won’t be alone. Ellie and Lizzy are coming too, and then Freddy. We have absolutely nothing planned and I like it that way.

This morning I met Maria del Carmen Flores at La Cocina – San Francisco’s first non-profit, incubator kitchen. I’ve been volunteering there for a few months, mostly writing and editing web content, but today was something new. I interviewed Maria, the owner of Estrellita’s Snacks, for an inaugural recipeplusbioblurb on La Cocina’s website. (Read it here, if you like.) When I scheduled the interview, I envisioned it taking about 20 minutes or so. I would ask Maria a few questions, Leticia would translate, and that would be that. Ummm, or not.

The interview somehow morphed into a two hour conversation. Maria told me her life story and it was truly incredible. It’s why I’m still awake at 2:30am. Because somehow, hearing Maria’s story made me fall even more in love with the world. Because her life has been riddled with trials and hardships that I can’t fathom, and yet she assured me that she “is a star” and I agree. Because she never gave up hope, and with her smartsharpstellar entrepreneurial spirit she has made her dreams come true.

Maria del Carmen Flores. I mean, that’s a beautiful name! Her story began when she was 6 years old and selling tostadas, pupusas and fresh fruit con limon y sal with her mom on the streets of Berlin, El Salvador. Her parents married her off when she was only 13 years old. She had her first child at 14. All in all, she bore 7 children – 6 boys and one girl. 3 of the boys died when they were young. Her husband was abusive and living with him was “muy mal”, and so after 12 years on a farm in rural El Salvador, Maria escaped to Guatemala. She lived there for a year and learned to cook Guatemalan food, then returned to El Salvador for her children. They moved (slowlypurposefully through the forest to avoid border patrols) and ended up in Oaxaca, Mexico, where they stayed for more than 20 years.

It was in Oaxaca where Maria had a dream about starting her own business. She borrowed 100 pesos from her neighbor and bought beer, a chicken and beans. She cooked and sold it all. The next week, she had enough money to buy a table and set up a small stand on the street. Her nickname around town was “La Picara Sonadora,” which loosely means “The Quirky Dreamer” because Maria was always dreaming big.

From what I understand (and Leticia patiently explained), relations between the Salvadorans and the Mexicans was and is very strained. While in Oaxaca, Maria always helped people from outside of Mexico to sneak in. She would hide them and feed them – reinforcing a real-life Mexican Underground Railroad. It was through this network that Maria met a woman who asked for her help getting to the United States. Maria had Mexican papers, so she acted as this older woman’s daughter. They rode a web buses all the way to Tijuana. It was there, in Tijuana, where they got off the last bus and walked across the border and into California. No questions asked.

Maria ended up in San Francisco on the #14 bus without her friends or family. As luck would have it, the bus driver spoke Spanish and gave her a rudimentary tour of the city. He pointed out the places she should go where she would be able to speak Spanish. He directed her to 24th Street. She explored the city, always returning to walk the “escaleras electricas” at the 24th Street BART station. She stood in front of Carlo’s Bar because the patrons spoke Spanish. Pretty soon, she was working the night shift at Carlo’s and cleaning at Safeway on 30th Street during the day. She also found time to she con­tin­ued to do what she’d always done best — mak­ing pupusas, tostadas, tamales and aguas fres­cas — and sell­ing them to passersby. Only this time, the $20 she used to pur­chase the plan­tains, oil and salt for her tostadas turned into $300 in her pocket. Soon there­after, Estrellita’s Snacks was born.

A year after she arrived in San Francisco, Maria had saved enough money to get her first son and his family into the U.S. Her other children followed soon thereafter and now they all live in the Mission. Maria has been pro­duc­ing her food in the La Cocina kitchen since 2005, with the help of her chil­dren and her children’s chil­dren. Estrellita’s Snacks was coined in honor of Maria’s daugh­ter and grand­daugh­ter, who are both named Estrella. It means star in Span­ish. Of course, Maria is a star in her own right and she has stars on her front teeth to prove it. (She really does. Look closely.) Maria sells her food at the Alemany Farmers Market on the weekends and Civic Center during the week. The End.

(Except, this is absolutely not the end. This is Maria’s LIFE and it will continue on, hopefully for decades to come. I guess The End is never really the end anyway. There’s no such thing. Okay, it’s almost 4am now. I’m delirious. I’m at My End.)

After Maria had finished telling me her story, she walked to her house and brought me back a sack full of Estrellita’s Snacks and a few of her dolls to admire. Then, we went outside on Folsom Street so I could take her photo. She said, “Se podria escribir un libro sobre la historia de mi vida.” You could write a book about my life.

My new friend, Maria of Little Star Snacks, might be on to something…

I never had an Easy-Bake oven but my friend Mackenzie did. We were friends in kindergarten. I would go over to her house to play and we’d bake little cupcakes and brownies, adding water to the Betty Crocker powder mix. I remember being underwhelmed with the oven because it didn’t get very hot – I was skeptical of the little light bulb that was supposed to do all the baking. I also remember the oven being smack in the middle of Mackenzie’s living room, which never felt quite right. I might have been 6-years old, but I wanted to bake a real brownies in a real oven. Thankyouverymuch.

Flash forward and a couple of decades have passed since I was Easy-Baking with Mackenzie and I have long since graduated to baking in real ovens that get (sometimes too) hot. I went through a rather intense cookie baking phase in middle school when I was making chocolate chip cookies a few times a week. I would give most of the cookies to friends, sometimes forgoing the baking step altogether and presenting them with a paper plate full of raw cookie dough. In those days, raw often took precedence over cooked. Then freshman year of high school rolled around, and I discovered that homemade brownies were equivalent to attendance points in gym class. Seriously. Mr. Metzger told me that if I baked him brownies, I didn’t have to come to class. So, what did I do? I baked Mr. Metzger brownies every week and I never went to gym class. I still can’t believe I got away with that.

I first read about these brownies on one of my very favorite food blogs called The Wednesday Chef. Luisa’s post does these brownies justice. She claims that “a small child could master” these brownies, and it’s probably true. I’m convinced that they are the grown-up version of the Easy-Bake brownie. Please don’t take this the wrong way. I promise you, they are richchewygooey and delicious. They just taste like box brownies only much much better because the ingredients are far superior to anything you could find in a box. And they are ridiculously simple.

The rich chocolate flavor is composed entirely from cocoa powder, so there is no chocolate to melt. The only wet ingredients are eggs, a dash of vanilla and butter. Heck, there are only seven ingredients total, eight if you add nuts or chocolate chips like I did. Might I also add that they are wonderful for breakfast? They truly are. On more than one occasion as of late, I’ve been lying in bed after the alarm has gone off, lacking the motivation to rise and face the day. Then, as if by decadentdivine intervention, I remember the brownies and my day suddenly can’t start one second later. These brownies and a cup of coffee are a match made in sinfullysweetheaven.

I made these brownies twice in less than a 24-hour period. I whipped up the first batch as a very belated birthday treat for my two friends who both celebrated their actual birthdays weeks ago. Better late than never! It’s safe to say that none of us were actually hungry for brownies after dinner, but we ate and enjoyed them anyway. I sprinkled them with powdered sugar at the last-minute for purely aesthetic purposes. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend this because they’re sweet enough as is. Anyway, after my friends had gone home, I did the dishes and went to bed, then woke up the next morning, ate brownies for breakfast and proceeded to make another batch (this time with a few chocolate chips mixed in for good measure) to bring to a little party that night. Yes, I had myself a good old-fashioned brownie blowout bonanza. Now it’s your turn…

Best Cocoa Brownies
Makes 16 larger or 25 smaller brownies

10 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 1/4 cups sugar

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened, high-quality cocoa powder (I used Ghirardelli)

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2 large eggs, cold

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup walnut pieces or chocolate chips (optional)

  • Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Line the bottom and sides of an 8×8-inch square baking pan with parchment paper or foil, leaving an overhang on two opposite sides.
  • Combine the butter, sugar, cocoa, and salt in a medium heat proof bowl and set the bowl in a wide skillet of barely simmering water. Stir from time to time until the butter is melted and the mixture is smooth and hot enough that you want to remove your finger fairly quickly after dipping it in to test. Remove the bowl from the skillet and set aside briefly until the mixture is only warm, not hot. It looks like gritty sludge at this point, but it will smooth out once the eggs and flour are added.

  • Stir in the vanilla. Add the eggs one at a time, stirring vigorously after each one. When the batter looks thick, shiny, and well blended, add the flour and stir until you cannot see it any longer, then beat vigorously for 40 strokes with the wooden spoon or a rubber spatula. Spread evenly in the lined pan.
  • Bake until a toothpick plunged into the center emerges slightly moist with batter, about 25 minutes. Let cool completely on a rack. (The cooler the brownies, the easier to cut!)
  • Lift up the ends of the parchment or foil liner, and transfer the brownies to a cutting board. Cut into squares. Yum!